Among Rhinos, Lions, and Mount Kenya

The past two days have been shaped by nature, wildlife, and moments that felt almost unreal.

At dawn, we set off for the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, just a few minutes from the house where we are staying. The air was still cool as we entered the park, and almost immediately we were surrounded by wildlife. Herds of zebras stood grazing in the soft morning light, while birds moved everywhere around us, from tiny colourful species to the magnificent crowned cranes.

Julius was especially fascinated by the crowned cranes. We had already seen them in Nairobi National Park, but this time they were so much closer. Their golden crowns almost seemed to glow in the morning sun.

Behind them stretched the open plains, with Mount Kenya rising in the distance. Zebras, gazelles, and impalas grazed beneath Africa’s second-highest mountain. It looked exactly like the images you imagine before coming to Kenya, and somehow even more beautiful in real life.

Then we drove deeper into a bushier part of the park, and suddenly, a huge elephant appeared before us.

Our first wild elephant.

For a moment, nobody spoke. We simply stared in complete awe. The size, the calmness, the quiet strength of the animal, it was impossible not to feel overwhelmed.

From there, we continued to meet Baraka, a blind black rhino living safely within a protected enclosure. Being able to stand so close to such an extraordinary animal felt incredibly special. We could even feed him, carefully and gently, while learning more about his story and the protection work being done here.

The children were completely fascinated.

Assunta said,“It’s amazing. First I touched a baby elephant, then a giraffe in Nairobi, and now a black rhino!”

Baraka clearly left an impression on all of us, because the next morning we returned again to say hello.

The more time we spend in Ol Pejeta, the more we fall in love with this place. Everywhere you look there is wildlife: rhinos, zebras, elephants, antelopes, gazelles, and countless birds. And then came another highlight.

Lions.

The children could hardly believe it. We sat quietly watching them, completely absorbed in the moment.

Then came another surprise: large herds of cattle moving through the conservancy. At first, we were surprised to see them among all the wildlife, but later we learned that Ol Pejeta works with cattle as part of its conservation approach. The grazing helps regenerate the grasslands, supports biodiversity, and even contributes financially to protecting the wildlife and supporting local communities.

Back at the house, another kind of luxury awaited us. Charles, who looks after the house where we are staying, had prepared dinner for us when we returned in the evening. After eleven hours in the park, filled with impressions and excitement, it felt wonderful simply to sit together, eat, and relive the day’s adventures.

This morning, we returned once more to the park, simply enjoying being surrounded by these incredible animals again. This time we spotted giraffes too, though they are much harder to find here than in Nairobi. We still have not seen them up close. In return, however, we saw many  white rhinos from surprisingly close by. Almost too close at times, but absolutely beautiful.

And once again, when we returned home after the morning drive, Charles welcomed us with fresh fruit and pancakes. We felt thoroughly spoiled.

In between all of this, everyday life continued too.

There was homeschooling, though concentration disappeared quickly whenever monkeys, zebras, or warthogs wandered past outside. Every now and then, someone would stop mid-task and stare out of the window because another animal had appeared.

This evening, we visited a university friend whom I had not seen for fifteen years, yet someone who helped make so much of this journey possible. It was one of those meetings where conversation flows naturally, despite the years in between. The children connected just as easily, even with the language barrier, disappearing into games and laughter within minutes.

And once again, we find ourselves deeply grateful.

For this country.

For its wildlife and beauty.

And for the people who have welcomed us so warmly into it.