From Kilifi to Nairobi: Matatus, Markets, and a Taste of Kenya

We spent our last days in Kilifi soaking it all in, appreciating the stunning white beach and wondering when we might see something quite so beautiful again. We watched the monkeys and found ourselves asking whether we would see the same kind elsewhere in Kenya, or if each place would bring something new.

On our final day, we enjoyed the pool, the garden, the house, and, of course, time with friends who had introduced us to KivuKoni School and so many other parts of life here. We showed them the card tricks we had been practising, while Akhil amazed us once again with his own trick, the same one we had been trying to figure out since we last saw him.

It was a peaceful and gentle ending to our time in Kilifi.

Yesterday morning, though it already feels far away, we took one last walk along the beach, taking in the white sand and the endless blue of the Indian Ocean. And then it was time to leave, travelling via Mombasa back to Nairobi.

Even the small moments felt special, like walking across the tarmac with an umbrella to board the plane, or watching the little tractor bring the luggage from the plane to the terminal.

Back in Nairobi, we met my cousin, and the children were full of stories, eagerly sharing their highlights. It was beautiful to see their excitement and how much these past weeks had stayed with them.

This afternoon, we visited a friend of a friend and her family, who live in a very different part of Nairobi, Kawangware, a densely populated, low-income area. We brought a deck of cards, and within minutes the children were fully engaged, showing their tricks and teaching a few games to the three boys. It turned into such a warm and easy afternoon, and it felt meaningful to experience another side of the city.

One thing we hadn’t really noticed before was the colourful buses driving through Nairobi. In Kilifi we had seen one or two, but here they seemed to be everywhere. These buses are called matatus, the main form of local transport and, as it turned out, we would soon experience one ourselves.

Later that afternoon, we set off on a small culinary tour through Nairobi together with Wairimu. We began by taking a matatu to the local market. She explained how each bus has its own colours and name, like “Max,” “Effort,” or “Day by Day”, which help people recognise where the bus is going. We took one called “Day by Day.”

Music was playing loudly, though Wairimu assured us it wasn’t loud at all.

We understood what she meant later, when we took another matatu called “Alvin.” This time, the bass was so strong it vibrated through the entire bus. As Assunta said, “the music goes through your whole body.” And halfway through the ride, it got even louder.

Wairimu also pointed out one particular bus passing by, which had become famous after the German ambassador had ridden in it a few months ago. Since then, everyone seems to know it.

At the market, she showed us how to choose the best fruits and vegetables, picking out everything we needed for dinner. Walking through the narrow paths, we passed stalls filled with fresh produce and clothes, and even chickens and ducks wandering freely between them.

After stopping by the butcher, we made our way to Wairimu’s home. From the rooftop, the view stretched far across the city, a completely different perspective of Nairobi.

Then we began to cook together.

We chopped vegetables, made chapatis, steamed the meat, and slowly created a delicious Kenyan meal. The children loved being part of it, not just cooking, but tasting everything along the way.

“I will never forget this dinner,” Julius said.

Polyxena simply added how delicious and filling it was.

It was one of those evenings that stays with you, simple, shared, and full of warmth. Wairimu was such a generous and welcoming host, and we felt incredibly grateful to have experienced this together.

Tonight, we fall into bed late, tired but very happy, carrying with us all the impressions, encounters, and small moments that made the day so special.